A Comprehensive Guide for Full-Service Laundry Operators
Your customers’ garments are more than just pieces of fabric. They hold the stories and experiences of those who wear them.
As wash-dry-fold and pickup-and-delivery services continue to grow, laundromat owners who choose to serve these burgeoning segments of the industry play an increasingly crucial role in preserving and maintaining the integrity of these cherished possessions. From delicate dresses to rugged work wear, understanding the fundamentals of garment care and stain removal is essential for providing top-notch service and ensuring customer satisfaction.
In this article, we’ll delve into the essential basics of garment care that every laundromat owner should know. Get ready to unlock the secrets to prolonging the lifespan of garments, conquering stubborn stains, and mastering the art of fabric preservation. Let’s embark on this journey to elevate your store’s garment-care services and become a trusted destination for exceptional laundry care.
Understanding Care Labels
First and foremost, it’s important to understand the care labels provided by garment manufacturers. The makers of garments want their customers to be happy with their products through several washings, and they provide some basic guidelines. But if one doesn’t understand the instructions, they can easily ruin a garment after just one cleaning.
Typically, clothing care labels consist of symbols or pictograms. Care labels are required by law in many countries, including the U.S. The symbols are intended to bridge language barriers, and designed to be clear and concise.
Knowing the meaning of all the care label symbols is of tremendous benefit to laundry professionals. These symbols indicate whether a garment can be placed in a washing machine, or if it requires washing by hand. If a washing machine may be used, the symbol will indicate the water temperature recommended for that particular garment. Additionally, these symbols will advise whether or not bleach may be used and even the type of bleach. They will guide you as to whether or not to tumble dry, line dry, or lie flat.
In essence, the care label will indicate everything you should know about the proper care of a specific garment or fabric, as well as the mechanical action for cleaning it. Given that, it can be handy to create a chart listing all of the symbols and their meanings, as there are quite a few.
Choosing the Right Cleaning Products
There are many types of detergents, bleaches, and softeners on the market today – and more are being introduced every day. Again, as with care labels, understanding the language of the cleaning product manufacturer can help determine which product category to search in for a specific cleaning situation.
Here’s a rundown of the basics:
Detergents – Detergents are made by combining chemicals in a slurry mixer. The mixture heats up as a result of chemical reactions, and then it can be dried and powdered to form the final product. On average, there are about ten steps between the original raw materials and the final detergent. Because detergents don’t react as much with the minerals in water, they are the best choice for laundry. Liquid detergents work more effectively in cold water. However, dried products can be more concentrated and, thus, inexpensive.
In fact, most liquid and powder detergents are now concentrated. They come in much smaller packages, yet offer the same amount of cleaning power as the familiar products in larger packages. You need less of these “ultra-detergents” than with an un-concentrated product, so be sure to follow the label instructions, and use the measuring cap or scoop that comes with the product.
There also are combination detergents, which perform two jobs – such as detergents with built-in fabric softener, color-safe bleach, or a bleach alternative. And many laundry detergents are now fragrance-free and/or dye-free as well.
Bleaches – These convert soils into colorless, soluble particles that can be easily removed by detergents and carried away in the wash water. They brighten and whiten fabrics, and help remove stubborn stains.
Sodium hypochlorite bleaches – also known as chlorine bleach – are the more powerful laundry bleaches. They disinfect, as well as clean and whiten. They work on whites and colorfast washables, but not on wools or silks.
Oxygen – or color-safe – bleaches are gentler and work safely on all washable fabrics. They work best at maintaining whiteness, not necessarily restoring it.
With chlorine bleach, read the label and dilute as directed. For best results, add in five minutes after the wash cycle has begun to agitate in order to avoid destroying the enzymes and fluorescent whiteners in the detergent.
With oxygen bleach, introduce the product directly into the wash water before the clothes are added. It’s most effective in warm or hot water. Warning: never pour powdered bleach directly onto wet clothes.
If you have any doubt as to whether or not a garment is safe to bleach, don’t guess. Read the garment’s care label for specific instructions, and first test for colorfastness in an inconspicuous area by following the instructions on bleach package label.
Enzyme Presoaks – These powdered products are especially effective in removing protein stains, such as baby formula, blood, body fluids, dairy products, eggs, and grass. When added to the wash water, they also boost the cleaning power of the detergent.
To use, presoak the laundry in a washer, a sink or a pail before washing. And always follow the directions on the product label.
Fabric Softeners – These decrease static cling, which is especially useful when washing permanent-press and synthetic fibers. They make fabrics softer and fluffier, reduce drying time, reduce wrinkling, and can make ironing easier.
Liquid fabric softeners should be added to the final rinse cycle, while softener sheets go directly into the dryer. Additional, packet-type softeners may be attached to the fin of the dryer drum.
When adding liquid softeners to the rinse water, be sure to dilute first. Never pour softener directly onto a garment, because this can cause staining or spotting.
It’s also important to note that fabric softeners can reduce the effectiveness of flame retardancy on fabrics, such as those used in children’s sleepwear.
Prewash Soil and Stain Removers – These are available in liquids, sprays, gels, sticks, and bars. They’re effective in pretreating heavily soiled and stained garments, especially those made from polyester fibers. These stain removers work well on oil-based stains like animal fats, body soils, cooking oils, cosmetics, and motor oils. Soap bars work well on fabric softener, perspiration, and tobacco stains.
It’s best to treat a stain as quickly as possible. Use liquid, gel, or spray removers just before washing the item. If the stain remains, apply a second treatment, rubbing directly into the stain.
When using a stick type of treatment, immediately rub the stick on the fresh stain, and then set it aside and wash later – even as much as a week later.
A word of warning: never use prewash soil and stain removers on neon and fluorescent colors, as the colors might fade or run.
How to Care for Today’s Most Common Fabrics
Natural fibers and synthetics, as well as various blends of each, create a plethora of fabric types available on the market today. And each has its own unique properties that make its associated care approach equally unique.
Here’s an overview of some of the more common fabric types and how to approach their care:
Cotton – Cotton is one of the most well-known and popular natural fibers. It may be used alone or in a blend of synthetic or other natural fibers. Cotton is a versatile and comfortable fabric making it a worldwide favorite for manufacturing many types of garments. Cotton can be found in an extremely wide variety of clothing – from items as casual as a T-shirt or as elaborate as a designer dress.
Unless a garment has been preshrunk or processed, cotton is prone to shrinkage. When considering how to clean a cotton garment, the best place to begin with is the care label. A “cold water only” symbol most likely indicates that this particular garment will shrink if not washed properly.
However, if a cotton garment has been preshrunk it may be able to be washed in hot, warm, or cold water, depending on the color of the garment. Again, before proceeding, be sure to refer to the care label instructions.
If the care label indicates that it is allowed, add chlorine bleach to white cotton wash loads to remove stains. Colored cotton garments may be brightened with the addition of a non-chlorine bleach formulated for colored clothing. Cold-water washing will protect the deep color of darker garments and preserve the pep of brightly colored ones.
Over-drying cotton will encourage shrinkage. Dry cotton garments at a lower heat and remove them from the dryer while still fairly cool.
Linen – Linen is another well-known and popular natural fiber. Professional care is recommended for many linen garments, so always check the care label. If the label identifies the garment as being machine washable, proceed using a water temperature that coincides with the garments color. A specific temperature may be indicated on the care label. Linen tends to absorb more water during the washing process than other fibers, so guard against overcrowding in the washer and dryer.
Linen should be ironed on a padded surface using steam, not directly on a hot surface. Be sure to avoid leaving the iron in one spot for too long to prevent scorching.
Polyester – This versatile fabric offers manufacturers incredible versatility beyond simply wearable garments. Polyester allows for the creation of colorful, durable, and easy-to-care-for garments of all kinds. Although most polyester garments may be machine washed using warm water, it is always a good idea to refer to the care label.
The majority of polyester garments can be tumble dried on a low heat setting. They should be removed from the dryer while still slightly damp to prevent wrinkles and static cling. If ironing is required, use a low heat setting, as polyester can melt under a hot iron.
Today, many forms of polyester are being created and mixed with other fabrics to create such products as washable wool, wicking sportswear, water-repellent garments, and wrinkle-free cottons.
Silk – Supple, strong and lustrous, silk is a natural fiber and is among the world’s oldest clothing materials. Silk fiber itself is washable, however, many weave patterns used in the creation of silk fabric will tighten or pucker if washed, and deep dye tones may not be colorfast.
As always, let the garment’s care label be your guide when cleaning silk garments. “Dryclean only” signals a fabric or construction that will not survive washing. When cleaning washable silk garments, use a product specially formulated for hand washing or delicate fabrics. Mild baby shampoo – without conditioning additives that may add wax or oils – is a good choice for hand-washable silk fabrics. It will clean the natural protein and revitalize the fiber.
Silk garments are never recommended for tumble dry. The garment should be rolled in a towel to press out moisture and then hung up to dry. Press silk garments with a warm iron, using indirect heat.
Wool – Wool is a natural, soft, warm fiber made from the coats of sheep and other animals. Naturally insulating and easy to dye, wool fabric runs the gamut from rugged tweeds to soft sweaters.
Wool is frequently made from curly hair fibers. They sometimes are straightened to be woven into the fabric. However, moisture and heat can cause the fibers to curl back up and create shrinkage.
In its natural state, wool is washable, but because many wool garments incorporate construction methods that cannot be washed, check the care label to determine if a garment is dryclean-only or washable. If washable, use a gentle detergent and hand wash or machine-wash as directed.
Wash and rinse wool fibers in lukewarm water. Using cold water to rinse actually can cause shrinkage when dealing with wool items.
Rayon – Rayon is a popular semi-synthetic fabric created from wood pulp mixed with chemicals. It’s a cool and comfortable fabric used in a wide variety of garments from blouses to work clothes.
Originally, rayon was a dryclean-only fabric. However, the manufacturers discovered they could create washability in rayon by adding certain finishes to the surface of the fabric after it was knitted or woven. Of course, these finishes added to the price of the material, so many garments today remain untreated.
It is important to read the care label, because all rayon garments are not washable. Also, note that most of the washable rayon garments today are hand-washable-only and should be drip dried or dried flat. These directions should be followed closely, because when rayon is wet, it actually loses 30 percent to 50 percent of its strength. The constant agitation of a washer and tumbling of a dryer eventually will cause the fibers to break down and shorten the life of the garment.
Sorting It All Out
The next step for the full-service laundry operation is something every college freshman learns after one or two loads of white T-shirts magically turning pink – how to sort laundry.
Clearly, there’s more to the professional sorting game than just keeping dark garments away from those gleaming whites. The secret is mixing and matching items into loads that need similar soaps or detergents, wash cycles, and water temperatures.
Always check those garment care labels for special cleaning instructions. Without a doubt, smart sorting is the way to ensure clean results – wash after wash.
Wash all whites separately, wash pastels and medium colors together, and wash brights and darks by themselves. Pay special attention to white and lightly colored synthetics, as they can pick up dark dyes from other fabrics during washing. Also, check trimmings and decorations for colorfastness.
Sort out those heavily soiled items away from the lightly soiled ones, since lightly soiled items can pick up the extra soil from the wash water. In those cases, whites will slowly get grayer or yellower, and colors will become duller.
Other factors to consider:
The Unmatched Set: Mix small and large items together in each load. This lets the clothes move more freely, resulting in better washing.
The Fabric Types: Consider the fabrics and how they are constructed. Separate loosely knitted garments and delicates from regular wash loads, and then wash them in a gentle cycle.
The Lint Losers: Fuzzy sweatshirts, chenille robes, flannels and brand new towels tend to share their lint with other garments during washing. Wash them by themselves – and definitely away from corduroys and permanent press garments, which attract lint easily.
The Fluorescents: Hot pinks, bright greens, and electric blues are often much less colorfast than other fabrics. Wash them separately or test them first before washing with other colors. In addition, don’t pretreat with stain removers without first testing them for colorfastness in an inconspicuous area. Also, realize that fluorescent colors can fade over time.
Getting Clothes Clean: Blinded by Science
Let’s not overstate the scientific aspect to doing laundry. After all, it’s still just dirty laundry, so there’s no need to start interviewing chemists for your wash-dry-fold team.
However, science – specifically chemistry – plays a role in garment care and stain removal. From the creation of new materials and blends from today’s fabric manufacturers to the products for removing stains from garments, science is at work in your laundromat. And, yes, the makers of these items indeed have scientists on staff, experimenting and researching new products on a constant basis.
So, let’s take a look at the science behind getting clothes clean.
Water temperature is a key element to this process. Heat will speed up the chemical reaction of the detergent. Some studies have shown that a 15-degree drop in water temperature will reduce the chemical reaction by 15 percent. Others have shown the drop to be as great as 50 percent.
Although studies disagree on the exact numbers, it’s a fact that, as water temperature decreases, the chemical reaction with the detergent decreases as well. This is the main reason to wash garments in the warmest temperature the garments’ care labels recommend.
Water temperature also will impact the time of the wash cycle. The longer garments are exposed to heat, the better the chemical reaction and the cleaner the clothes. This is why cold-water cycles run for longer periods than warm or hot cycles. More time equals more agitation, which is an attempt to make up for the loss of heat in a cold-water wash.
Of course, modern laundry detergents contain an impressive array of chemicals that aid in the cleaning process and the conditioning of garments. These include chemicals that not only digest dirt and stains, but clean the water as well.
Laundry detergents require four factors to get clothes clean – water, heat, time, and agitation. These four factors are the essential elements of the wash process, and today’s detergents are created to make the most of each of them over a large range of fabrics and materials.
Because tap water is notorious for containing calcium and various metals that can interfere with the wash process, the bulk of laundry chemicals in detergents consists of conditioners that will bind these elements together and keep them out of the way. This is why laundries in areas known for “hard” water typically require more detergent. The more minerals in the water, the more conditioner required to remove them.
The most common conditioner today is sodium carbonate. It’s not as effective as some of the chemicals used in the past, but it causes far less environmental damage. In fact, in a typical container of laundry detergent, the product’s conditioners may represent more than half of the product’s weight.
The second most prevalent ingredient found in detergents is a chemical class referred to as a surfactant, which is one of the main active ingredient that lifts and removes stains. Surfactants tend to be polar opposites of each other.
Additionally, most detergents are a class of chemicals called linear alkyl benzene sulfonates. These are created from long chains of a chemical called a dodecane – which, in turn, is composed of long chains of carbon and hydrogen. This chemical readily forms long-chain molecules. Attached to this is a benzene ring, with a sulfate molecule included.
These two elements fundamentally disagree on their feelings about water. The dodecyl chain hates it and does all it can to get away from it, while the benzo sulfate loves water and wants to get closer to it.
Chemists call these properties hydrophobic (water-hating) and hydrophilic (water-loving), and this conflicting nature is what makes detergents so powerful. Dodecyl chains hate water, but they like each other, and also like other chemicals such as fats, sugars, proteins, etc. Basically, it likes all of the things that you want to remove from your customers’ garments.
When detergent is introduced to water, these two elements of the detergent molecules begin a beneficial conflict. The benzo sulfate bit is happy to swim about loosely bonding with water, while the dodecane chain wants to repel the water. When these molecules come in contact with something other than water, such as the dirt or a stain on the fabric, they reach a compromise of sorts – with the dodecyl chain attaching to the dirt, and the benzo sulfate chain staying with the water.
As agitation moves the garment around in the water, the dirt will attract the dodecyl chain of more detergent molecules, thus covering it. By contrast, the benzo sulfate molecules are still trying to hang onto the water. Eventually, the two will reach an agreement by creating a small globe around the dirt, which then floats off the clothing into the water.
This is how stains are lifted from clothes. They are surrounded and freed by these enclosing globes of detergent. Although it may appear that the dirt and stains have dissolved in the water, it’s actually these globes that are floating in the water and then simply go down the drain.
But that’s only a part of the story. There are enzymes in today’s detergents that aid in breaking down stains and making the whole process run more quickly.
Enzymes, which are complex molecules made by living organisms, enhance the cleaning action of surfactants. Often called “biological catalysts,” enzymes promote certain chemical reactions without themselves being changed. Enzymatic action is similar to digestive juices in the stomach, which break down food in preparation for digestion.
Detergent enzymes, made by bacteria in factory production vats, react with and break up stains that are made of proteins. Such stains include blood, meat gravy, milk, eggs, and grass. Enzymes break down these substances into simpler forms that can be removed by other components in the detergent.
No doubt, water and detergent play large roles in cleaning clothes. However, if you were to simply let everything just sit there, nothing would get clean. Agitation is critical.
The main purpose of agitation is to move the clothes through the water so that the dirt and stains can be whisked away. As the clothes rub up against each other and the sides of the washer drum, agitation dislodges the grime.
This is why it’s important to create proper-sized load. If you overload a machine, the clothes won’t receive the agitation needed to remove stains. Just as important, if a machine is under-loaded, there may not be enough items to rub up against each other. Either way, the clothes simply won’t get as clean as they should.
General Rules for Stain Removal
Here are some basic guidelines of stain treatment:
• Analyze the stain. Look to see where it’s located, how it smells, and how it feels. These actions will provide clues as to the type of stain and treatment necessary.
• Read the garment’s care label. Before treating any item, read its care label and follow it to the letter. Be familiar with the new fabric care symbols on clothing labels. Some of the major detergent manufacturers can provide free posters explaining the symbols.
• Follow all product instructions. With detergents, pretreaters and so on, be sure to follow the directions. Using chemicals improperly can permanently set a stain or completely ruin the fabric of a garment.
• Always test a detergent or chemical on an inconspicuous area of a garment. Before applying it directly to the stain, check for colorfastness. A clipping from the seam allowance typically is the best place to test.
• Work on a hard, clean surface in a well-lighted area.
• Treat a stain from the inside of the garment. A good method is to place the fabric face down on a paper towel. Change the paper towel regularly throughout the treatment to prevent the stain from transferring back onto the fabric.
• Blot a stain – never rub it. Rubbing a stain can set it in permanently, and it also can mark or damage the fabric.
• Don’t oversoak a stain, or hand- or machine-wash a stained fabric for too long. This can cause soil to redeposit on the garment, and it can fade the garment’s colors.
• Air dry a garment until a stain clearly has been removed. Dryer heat will set the stain.
The Top 20: Treating Specific Stains
It’s important to know the type of stain you’re dealing with in order to successfully remove it. Different stains require different treatments, and properly treating a stain can guarantee at least an improvement in the garment’s appearance.
When treating a blended fabric, treat according to the most sensitive fiber requirements in the combination. For example, treat the cotton/silk blend as if it were all silk, even if it’s mostly cotton.
Below are tips for removing 20 of the most common stain types you’ll likely run across at your laundromat. Although there is more than one way to remove most stains, these suggestions can serve as solid general guidelines:
Beverages (coffee, soda, wine, etc.) – Sponge or soak the stain in cold water. Apply detergent or a prespotter to any remaining stain. Launder in the hottest water possible without damaging the fabric, using bleach if it’s safe for the fabric.
Blood – Soak in cold water for a minimum of 30 minutes. If the stain is old and set in, pretreat or soak in warm water using an enzyme detergent. Launder in the hottest water possible without damaging the fabric. If the stain is still visible after laundering, soak again in warm water with a presoak product. Rewash using fabric-safe bleach.
Chocolate/Cocoa – Soak in cool water with an enzyme detergent. Launder in hot water. If the stain is not fully removed, rewash using a fabric-safe bleach.
Cosmetics (lipstick, mascara, etc.) – Pretreat the stain with a prespotter, or dampen and rub with bar soap. Launder as usual with a fabric-safe bleach.
Fabric Softener Residue – Dampen the stain and rub with bar soap. Rinse, then rewash.
Fruit Juice – Soak in cold water. Pretreat the stain and wash with a fabric-safe bleach.
Glue/Adhesives – Apply ice or very cold water to harden the affected area. Scrape the stain carefully with a dull knife to remove any excess. Saturate with a prespotter or cleaning fluid. Rinse and then launder. Tough adhesives may require a treatment with acetone.
Gum – Follow the directions for removing glue and other adhesives.
Grass – Pretreat or soak in an enzyme detergent. Launder using a fabric-safe bleach. If the stain persists, sponge it with alcohol (Be sure to dilute the alcohol in two parts water, if there is any concern about the colorfastness of a fabric).
Grease/Oil – Pretreat with a commercial-grade prespotter or laundry detergent. Launder in the hottest water safe for the fabric. If the stain persists, place the stain face-down on paper towels and apply cleaning fluid to the back of fabric. Allow fabric to dry, then rinse. Launder again in hot water.
Ink – Some inks may be set in by laundering. Therefore, try pretreating the stain before laundering. Use alcohol or cleaning fluid, sponge the reverse side, with the fabric face-down on a paper towel. Rinse thoroughly. Another method is to place the stained area over the mouth of a jar or glass, holding the fabric taut. Drip the cleaning fluid through the spot so the ink will drop into the container. Rinse. Some household cleaners, such as 409, or hairspray also may work as pretreaters. Once the stain is sufficiently removed, launder as usual.
Ketchup – Scrape off any excess with a dull knife. Soak in cold water for a minimum of 30 minutes. Pretreat the affected area with prespotter. Wash the garment in hot water with a fabric-safe bleach.
Mildew – Launder the item in chlorine bleach, if safe for the fabric. If chlorine bleach cannot be used, soak the item in oxygen bleach and hot water. Launder. If stain persists, sponge with hydrogen peroxide. Rinse thoroughly and launder again.
Mud/Heavy Soil – If the mud is dry, brush off as much as possible. Rinse in cold water. Pretreat with detergent. If the soil is very heavy or set in, soak in a regular or enzyme detergent. Launder in hot water with appropriate bleach.
Mustard – Pretreat with a commercial spot remover and launder in the hottest water that is safe for fabric, using chlorine or oxygen bleach.
Nail Polish – Don’t count on being able to remove this stain, especially if it has set for a few days. Gently apply acetone to the reverse side of the stain, placing the garment face down on a paper towel. Rinse garment thoroughly, then launder.
Paint – If the paint is water-based, rinse in warm water and launder. If the paint is already dried onto the garment, it probably cannot be removed. If the paint is oil-based, use a paint solvent, such as turpentine on the reverse side of the stain. Rinse, then pretreat with a prespotter or laundry detergent. Rinse again, then launder.
Perspiration – Use a prespotter, or rub the area with bar soap. If discoloration has occurred from the perspiration, treat fresh stains with ammonia and older stains with white vinegar. Launder in the hottest water that is safe for the fabric, using an enzyme detergent or oxygen bleach.
Scorch Marks – If the fabric is actually damaged by the marks, the stain will not be removable. If the fabric is still intact, use the treatment listed for mildew.
Wax (candles, crayons, etc.) – Scrape off any excess with a dull knife. Place the stain between paper towels and press with a warm iron, or spray both sides of the fabric with WD-40. Next, place the stain face down and treat the remaining spot with a prespotter or cleaning fluid. Blot with paper towels and let stand until dry. Launder in hot water with appropriate bleach. If an entire load of clothes has been marked with crayon, rewash in hot water, using regular detergent and one cup of baking soda. If the stains persist, rewash with bleach or soak in an enzyme detergent in hot water, and then launder.
Clearly, mastering the basics of garment care is a pivotal step toward establishing a successful and reputable full-service laundry business. By implementing the techniques and practices we’ve explored, you can enhance customer satisfaction, build trust, and differentiate yourself from competitors.
Remember, each garment that enters your laundromat carries a story, and it’s your responsibility to handle it with care. Embrace the art of fabric preservation, stay updated on industry advancements, and continuously seek feedback from your customers to improve your garment-care services. With dedication, attention to detail, and a passion for excellence, your laundry business can become a haven for impeccable garment care.
Here’s to creating a positive impact – one garment at a time.
[Editor’s Note: Sources for this article included the American Cleaning Institute and “Garment Care Basics for Laundry Owners,” a white paper published by the Coin Laundry Association.]
