I run a very clean laundry. My attendants wash and polish my washers daily. However, I’m having a problem cleaning the green and black mold off of the underneath portion of my rubber soap lids. What can I do?
First, buy a small, stiff bristle brush that’s about a half-inch to an inch wide, or else purchase a hard, bristle toothbrush.
Next, mix a solution of four ounces of OxiClean or Clorox with a half-gallon of hot water. Then brush the mold off using the solution. Follow this by using a standard spray bottle with warm water to spray the area clean.
Follow this procedure on a weekly basis, and you will keep the mold from returning.
I own a successful self-service laundry in southwest Florida. We offer both residential wash-dry-fold and commercial accounts drop-off services. However, lately we’ve been having trouble getting rid of deodorant/armpit stains from shirts, as well as getting restaurant tablecloths fully clean. What would you recommend?
For both of these issues, I would strongly recommend that you talk to your chemical salesperson. The first priority for both the shirts and the tablecloths is to use a quality detergent with stain- and odor-removing properties.
Next, I would inquire about di-limonene- or citrus-based products, which are excellent at removing oils and grease stains. Also, consider using quality-grade bleach – of course, if the items are white, use chlorine bleach; if they’re colored, use oxygen-based bleach.
This should help you get your clients’ shirts and tablecloths looking as clean and bright as new.
I recently accepted a commercial account from a local butcher shop. Before I start cleaning their aprons, can you tell me the best method for removing the blood?
Blood can be easy or very difficult to remove, depending on the nature of the stain and the fabric. If the blood is fresh and isn’t mixed with grease or fat, a simple wash in cold water with detergent (be sure it is a detergent that works well in cold water) and bleach should do the trick. If that doesn’t work, the next step is to wash the items in warm water using an enzyme detergent in a three-minute prewash. Follow this up with a 12-minute wash with a built detergent, two regular rinses and a third rinse using a sour. All of these additives are available through commercial soap and chemical distributors.
If the blood is set in or mixed with grease, you will need to use a protein release agent. Start the washer, using warm water, and add the release once the tub is full. Let it agitate for four to five minutes, and then let it soak for no less than 45 minutes. Then, add detergent and bleach and finish with the warm water wash. If your machine will allow it, you should flush the machine, fill it with fresh water, and then add the detergent and bleach.
If the aprons are cotton, use chlorine bleach (six to eight ounces per hundredweight with a 15 percent bleach solution). If they are made of anything else, use oxygen bleach (eight to 12 ounces per hundredweight). I strongly recommend using a built or alkalide-based detergent, or using an orthosilicate or metasilicate additive to your regular detergent. Once the blood is removed, you can even move to hot water for your bleach and detergent wash.
If you have a programmable machine, you should go through the same blood removal process – followed by a 10- to 12-minute wash cycle, a flush, a bleach rinse and then two flushes.
